Category Archives: Home Improvement

Expert Advice On Knob And Tube Removal And Costs

When this electrical contractor begins jobs with the estimated 5 to 40 % of the old wiring, we in fact replace the ancient wiring that comprises up to 90 percent of the overall house wires. The prior occupants deliberately or otherwise tend to conceal the knob and tube in order to get a higher selling price.

House sellers or their dishonest electricians would hide the K n T and replace just its exposed pieces and ends, or implement other deceptive tactics.

As a result a happy owner has actually bought a property with ticking firebombs inserted in the walls and ceiling. Illegal splicing inside dry ceiling/wall is unsafe. The electrical code explicitly prohibits such practices.

From our experience 95% of 60 year or older houses have prohibited unprotected in-wall splicing in addition to the K&T. It is clear that all those ex-homeowners or handymen could not do multiple renovations and repairs correctly. And often even recently replaced or installed wiring is not to code, poorly done, or is outright dangerous for you and your house. Unfortunately, the only way to find this out is to cut the wall plaster or just replace all the wiring entirely instead of smashing the walls first.

Just a few remaining Knob-n-Tube wires would carry current to the second and third floors that comprise 70 or 80 percent of the entire home. Such deteriorated or abused circuits make the danger of overheating or in-wall ignition even greater. Neither official inspection, nor electrical contractor can discover those flaws without opening the walls or making holes. Only external check up is done by the inspector. Obviously no one would allow him to crush walls simply to have a look inside.

The estimate therefore makes no much sense because no one could see through the walls to find out the exact scope of the work. Estimating the percentage of Knob and Tube, the extend and nature of ungrounded lines, and of other unsafe conditions could take up to ten hours. The in-wall connections that were not done correctly are rather difficult to identify. It is faster to just remove them while avoiding any major damage to the walls.

It should now obvious that a supposed two circuit replacement could actually become a 80 or more percent full scale upgrade.

And that could lead to a conflict or a job not properly completed. Alternative is an hourly rate pricing. Assuming you hired an honest contractor this pricing approach should produce the best and fairest ultimate result. You can learn more about Knob-n-Tube Rewiring Contractor as well as other resources on Toronto Knob and Tube Wiring Replacement, Inspection, Repair and expert advice on tube replacement
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Manufactured Stone Molds Allow Inexpensive Home Improvements

If you’ve ever walked or driven by a home with beautiful stone brick and rock facades, statuary, walkways and other decor detailing, you probably wondered how anyone could afford such exquisite materials and workmanship. You can indeed pay a fortune for stone and even stone veneers, but you don’t have to. That’s because you can make your own stone at home with cast concrete molds! In fact, a lot of the stone you see on homes is cultured stone though you couldn’t tell it from looking at it.

You can make stone stone veneer, bricks, pavers, cobbles, steppingstones and floor tile using concrete stone molds into which you pour own ready-to-mix concrete, cement or plaster. The craft molds then give the concrete the shape, size and texture of whatever stone you want to make. Special cement colors and cement sealers are applied to get the coloring and surface treatment of a specific stone It is actually the sealers that can create anything from a flat “stone” finish all the way to an ultra-glazed high gloss.

Concrete is an incredibly flexible building material that makes it all possible. It allows you to create a huge variety of different manufactured stone materials at a small fraction of what you’d pay at a stone yard. The look is almost indistinguishable from the real thing because the master molds are taken from real fieldstone, limestone, ledgestone, river rocks and many other types and kinds of stone.

Stone can be used for walls, fireplaces, siding, trim, walks, patios, tile and numerous other applications. It looks terrific and adds value to any property. Used in walls or as siding, man-made stone offers fire resistance, great insulation, sound suppression and superior durability. Used in landscaping, stone lasts practically forever and lets you create spectacular effects.

The key to it all is molds for stone Those concrete molds are made of industrial ABS plastic that lasts for hundreds of pours if you use and maintain it properly. Depending on the type of stone a mold may make a few large stones or a bunch of smaller ones. Each will be different, just like natural stone Man-made stone from molds is usually a couple of inches thick and generally weighs a lot less than thicker real stone Thinner pours are used for stone veneers. There is no need for a kiln or anything like that; concrete cures all by itself within anywhere from 15 minutes to a day, depending on the concrete mix, weather and the kind and size of the mold.

There is a very large selection of molds for just about any type of stone and stone material imaginable. You can even make things like Celtic designs, wall plaques, or other decorative additions. When it comes to making man-made stone there is no limit to your imagination.

You can order kits from companies that specialize on decorative concrete and cement molds. The kits usually include the molds, mold release to get the finished stones out easier, cement color, some sort of fortifier to add durability, and sealer. Some cast concrete companies offer packages that include DVD-based training materials. This comes in handy as, like with everything else, there is learning curve and you need some practice to get everything right.

Using cast concrete molds to make your own stone is an increasingly popular hobby that’s not only fun, but it can greatly add to the look and value of your home.

Chris Robertson is an author of Majon International, one of the worlds MOST popular internet marketing companies on the web.
Learn more about Manufactured Stone Molds.

Tips For Replacing Your Bathroom Caulking

Replacing the caulking in your tub or shower can brighten up your bathroom at a very affordable cost. Inspect the caulking around your shower or tub and determine if the caulking has began to turn dark with mildew. If it has it is time to replace the old caulking with fresh, new caulking. The main purpose of caulking is to protect your walls from water damage but it will also greatly enhance the appearance of your bathroom.

Choose a caulking that is formulated for a bathroom and is mildew resistant. Don’t purchase caulking that is made for use on exterior surfaces since it will not hold up well when used in a bathroom. Whenever you buy your caulking don’t buy the cheapest caulk that you can find. A quality caulking will have a good moisture barrier and will last much longer. It will also resist mold and mildew better.

To complete this project you will need a caulking gun if you do not have one already. You can purchase a caulking gun cheaply at any paint or hardware store. You will also require a utility knife, a putty knife and some old rags to clean up.

Begin by removing all of the old caulking. Using a utility knife cut along the edge of the caulking away from the surface. Usually after you began cutting the caulking, you can pull it off in large sections. Use a putty knife to remove any stubborn caulking which still remains.

Thoroughly scrub the areas where the caulking has been removed using bleach. This will kill all mildew that may still remain. Let the area dry completely before you begin to apply caulking.

Next, fill your tub with water. Water weighs eight pounds per gallon. Once your tub is full of the eight pound gallons of water in addition to your own weight, the tub will flex which will drop down and away from the wall which will cause the caulked joint to open. It is important to caulk the joint when it is as wide open as it possibly can be so that the new caulking will last much longer. After you have filled the tub with water, cut the tip off of your tube of caulking and apply a fresh bead of caulking directly to the joint where the old caulking was removed. Once you have applied a bead of caulking to the entire area, use your finger and run it along the fresh caulking in order to even it out. You may wish to wet your finger first as this helps to keep the caulking smooth.

Allow the new caulking dry for a minimum twenty four hours before you use your tub or shower so that the new caulking can cure. If you need to clean up any excess caulk you can use a wet rag.

You need to inspect the caulking around your tub or shower and also around the sink on a regular basis. Water can cause a great deal of damage when the caulking is not replaced after it has began to deteriorate.

Re-caulking your tub or shower will require a little time and hard work but it is worth the effort.

Copyright (c) 2008 Smoky Mountain Painting

The author is a licensed contractor and is the owner of Smoky Mountain Painting which is located in Pigeon Forge, Tennessee. For more information visit http://www.smokymountainpainting.com

The Solar Watt – An Important Consideration in Solar Power For Homes

Anyone considering setting up a solar panel for home should at least be aware of what a solar watt is and how it may impact their decision on whether or not to go ahead with implementing their own solar power system at home.

First things first, although the term solar watt sounds complicated, it’s actually not. It actually refers to the amount of electricity that your solar panel system is able to generate at a particular point in time.

However where this becomes important is because it could well impact the size of the solar panel system that you construct, and may even influence your decision on whether to go ahead with your solar energy project for your home.

Although almost everywhere in the world where people live gets sunshine at some point of the day (with seasonal exceptions of course, such as Antartica and countries located close to the Artic) it’s fair to say not all sunshine is created equal. Different parts of the world get different strengths of sunshine, some areas are impacted by pollution that weakens the sunshine and some areas receive varying strengths of sunshine at different times of year.

So what difference does the solar watt make to your project? Well, simply put, the harder it is for you to generate solar watts based on your sunshine strength the larger the size of panel(s) that you will need in setting up your system.

How do you find this out? You want to find out your daily sunshine intensity value, often referred to as insolation value. The insolation value tells you the amount of solar energy on a given surface area in a given time. Most commonly it is reported as watts per square metre.

You can easily find out this value by searching for an insolation map for your area – the internet is loaded with such information on weather sites and such. The higher the value, the smaller your solar panels will need to be. Well, that depends – you may choose to keep the large panels in order to generate the maximum amount of electricity possible, factoring in the ability of the cells to generate electricity (some may be more efficient than others).

Once you know how many watts your system is likely to generate each day you can build your system accordingly. If you are looking to go completely off grid you will need to divide your total daily energy needs by this number.

And that’s it – the solar watt. Simple really. If you want to learn more about solar power for homes and how it can save you significant amounts of money each year then please visit my solar power guidebook reviews
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Few Tips and Ideas for Bathroom Remodeling in Maryland

Are you ready to commence bathroom renovation process? Bathroom Remodeling Benefits in MD You would be finding that bathroom remodeling can add some allure to your already existing bathroom. Maryland Bathroom Remodel options and renovations are done in compliance with your particular needs like more spacious, a new tile pattern, a better shower, a Jacuzzi tub, or a vanity. Bathroom remodeling in Maryland though common, it is not easy to locate contractor or company in Maryland to perform the task along with helpful suggestions to have the perfect bathroom. In case you are getting bored of checking same old bathroom daily, then a Maryland Bathroom Remodel and Renovation would an ideal choice.

Get the Best Bathroom Renovation Contractors

In order to help you in locating the perfect construction contractor for Bathroom remodeling in Maryland, check the web directory Bizzibid to find the best Bathroom remodeling in Maryland for completing your project. If you wish to know about top four Maryland Bathroom Remodel and renovation contractors, all you need to try and do is fill in a fairly easy form to receive it, along with estimates for your project absolutely cost-free.

Bathrooms are one of the most significant rooms in your home and used daily. Occasionally, in older homes, the restroom just is not perfect being either too small, or with the worst of 70’s furnishings. If it’s so at your residence you need to modify the same. You can modify anything from altering some fixtures to bumping out walls in bathroom. Fortunately, you could find the best Maryland Bathroom Remodel and renovation contractors in Montgomery County, MD by searching at Bizzibid.com. You would accept the fact that bathroom is the most vital room in your Howard County home. A bathroom being too small or too ugly would be a real damper on your home’s convenience.

If you believe your bathroom becoming a pain, this is the apt time to refashion the same. You’ll have a chance to get up to 3 free online estimations from Maryland Bathroom Remodel and renovation contractors by submitting the form given in this website. If you’re getting exhausted about your bathroom in your Prince George’s County home, this is the best time for remodeling. If you’d like to refurbish your bathroom you can have top most contractors in your town simply by logging on to the website Bizzibid.com so that you can avoid wandering behind the contractors to spot the right one.

Find more information at Maryland Bathroom Remodel and Maryland Rebath
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Bedroom Decorating – Create an Adventurous Magical Forest Theme That

Stimulate your child’s senses by creating a safe haven where imagination can run wild. In this article you will find eight simple steps that will help you create the perfect magical forest bedroom theme adventure.

1. Paint the ceiling of your room blue.

To start your bedroom transformation you will want to paint the ceiling of your room in a shade of blue to simulate the sky.

2. Bring your sky into the room.

Paint your walls approximately two feet down from the ceiling in the same blue shade that was used on the ceiling. This helps to bring your sky down into the room and adds dimension.

3. Paint the remaining portion of the walls green.

The green will simulate grass in the forest and will provide a base layer for the additional decorative elements that we are going to add. It helps to create balance and carries the theme throughout the room.

4. Use murals or stencils to add trees.

Select different sizes of tree murals or wall decor stickers and add them to your walls to develop your magical forest design. If you have artistic flair, try drawing the tree designs on your wall and paint them in yourself. Use your artistic expression, because it’s a magical forest, anything can happen.

5. Add faux paint patio pavers.

Use a faux painting technique to paint patio pavers onto a wood floor. This requires a bit more advanced skill, but there are many sites on the internet with specific directions on how to paint a glaze to achieve a stone floor look.

6. Create clouds with pillow stuffing.

Pillow stuffing can be purchased at your local craft store. Glue large globs of pillow stuffing to your blue ceiling to create fluffy white clouds in your sky.

7. Make a tree out of bunk bed uprights or a post in the room.

If you have bunk beds, continue the wood posts to the ceiling of the room. If you don’t have bunk beds you can still install a post somewhere in the room to create your tree. Use netting that has been spray painted green and gather it up on small ceiling hooks to create a tree. Swoop some of the fabric down and then back up for an amazing 3-D effect.

8. Use forest creatures as decorative accents.

Finish off your magical forest decorating theme by adding plush and plastic forest animals to the shelves and on the top of dressers. Add a plush squirrel and other plush friends to your child’s bed for play and to complete the theme.

Any of these eight ideas, or all of them, would be easy and affordable ways to transform your child’s bedroom into a magical forest play land.

By the way, if you’ve enjoyed this article and would like to read more free decorating articles, be sure to check out the Wallpaper Home Decorating Blog at http://WallpaperHomeDecorating.com Be sure to sign up for the free monthly newsletter!

From Tammy Billings, the Wallpaper Home Decorating Blog Author, Interior Designer and Owner of http://www.usawallpaper.com

The Best Inverters For Home Use

The Best Inverters For Home Use
Is there more than one kind of inverter? The best inverters for home use come in two types, The first and most commonly found is the modified sine wave inverter. The other choice is the pure or true sine inverter.

The modified sine inverter is the less expensive and can be used as an excellent back up for blackouts. There are some things that you can’t run with the modified sine inverter though, so if you will be using them, you will need to have the pure sine wave inverter.

Which are the best inverters for home use? The best inverter for home use is the one that provides just the power that you need without expending extra power that you have no use for. The best way to figure out how much power you need is to go through your home and list what things you need to keep running should a loss of power occur.

When you are making the list of things you need to be able to use you can check what their power use is by looking on the back or bottom to find a tag attached that tells you their power consumption. It will also tell you if the item needs a larger power input to start that item. You will want to make sure the inverter you pick can provide that starting power load, after which the continuous use will be for less power.

What makes the pure sine inverter the best inverters for home? In the homes of today you will find things like computers that will not run on modified sine wave inverters. As you go through checking on what you will need to keep running you will find things that use variable speed motors or rechargeable battery tools.

If you have a lot things like this you will need a pure sine inverter to be able to run them. This is why it is becoming more common place to recommend the pure or true sine wave types of inverters. In the past it was easy to get by just using the modified sine wave inverter because of the kinds of things we had in our homes that could use that kind of power.

To find the best inverters for home use keep a list of things you will need to run with the inverter when the power goes out. Bring that list with you when you go shopping for an inverter. The people selling inverters can then look at the list and advise you on what will best serve your needs.

It could be that you can get a smaller pure sine inverter to connect just the things that require that kind of power and get a bigger modified sine inverter to run the other things on your list that can be run on the modified sine inverter. This is the kind of helpful suggestion you can get when you bring a list of what will need to be run from the inverter you get.

The best inverters for home come in all shapes and sizes. to fit the needs of the individual, but variety doesn’t mean you can compromise on quality. Make sure you choose a quality pure sine wave inverter with quality inverter cables and a deep cycle battery from a reputable manufacturer and business. Only then you can be assured of your investment and depend on the reliability of Aims Power Inverters .

My Rug (Carpet) Shows Vacuum Cleaner Marks Will it Go Away?

Almost all Cut-Pile (Plush or Saxony) Rugs or Carpets will show vacuum tracks and footprints. It is the inherent nature of this type of rug. This style of rug has fiber bundles that almost stand straight up, and you essentially walk on the tops of the twisted bundles. Cut-Pile rugs in solid colors will tend to show more than a multi-color, but they all will show to some extent. I am always mindful of this when I consult with a client, and I will generally ask them if tracks and footprints bother them. If it does, I will show them another style of rug or carpet.

Texture styles are a little better as each fiber bundle has a kink in the pile that makes it less likely to show, but even this style will still show some marks, mostly in solid colors. If you absolutely hate vacuum marks, choose a different style of Rug. Available in solid and some multi-colors.

Cut-Berber, or Frise a modern (and shorter) cousin to Shag, is great choice due to the fact that the fiber bundles lay over to the side. As you walk on the sides of the fiber bundles instead of the tops of the bundles, these will hardly show vacuum and traffic marks at all. If they begin to flatten in traffic areas, a regular vacuuming will spring the fibers back to life. This style of rug is available in solid and multi-colors.

High-low (Sculptured or cut-and-loop) style rug or carpet was the most popular style from the 1970’s to the 1990’s. The construction of these rugs leaves trails or patterns of looped carpet throughout the cut-pile. This style of rug (or carpet) usually comes in multi-colors. Although this style of carpet does not usually show vacuum trails and foot prints, it is no longer in vogue. Therefor the choices are quite narrow for this style. Over the past few years, most of my clients that choose this style, will choose it for a rental property.

Berber is a looped style rug or carpet. Since the construction of this style of rug is all loops in continuous lines, there is very little chance that it will show vacuum marks and footprints. Looped style rugs and carpets are generally favored in high-traffic areas and no matter what fiber they are made from, they will generally clean very easy. The only fallibility of continuous loops is their tendency to run (like panty-hose) if a loop gets snagged and a pet or the vacuum pulls on it. If your Berber rug gets a snag, be sure to trim it even to the pile or apply some latex adhesive and glue the loop back into place. If you buy a rug with low and tight loops, you will have less trouble with snags.

Although cut-pile rugs and carpets will show vacuum tracks and footprints, they reflect light in such a manner as to give the flooring a very luxurious effect. You can recognize a true plush by the frosted sheen across the tops of the fibers. This luxurious look comes at the cost of footprints and vacuum trails. Most affordable area rugs are machine-made, cut-pile or Plush style. You can decrease the appearance of vacuum trails and footprints by choosing a patterned or multi-color rug. Most high-end rugs are hand-made. Hand-woven rugs will show less trails than hand-knotted rugs. Since the average person usually buys a machine-made rug, I will leave off the virtues of hand-made rugs for another occasion.

Choosing your rug by Style rather than just color and pattern can assure that you will minimize the appearance of vacuum trails and footprints. However, this minor inconvenience is a small price to pay for the luxury and beauty of a true Saxony area rug.

Article By: Charles Beason
Charles is a Flooring Consultant and Online Merchant in the High Desert of Southern California.
Visit his website at http://www.rugrunnerbiz.com

This article is copyright (c) 2008 by Charles Beason, and may be reprinted in it’s entirety as long as this byline and copyright statement is included.

Pink Slime in Swimming Pools

Pink Slime (and its “buddy” White water mold) is a newer problem facing swimming pool owners over the past 10 – 20 years. They are naturally occurring and are caused only by a lack of proper pool maintenance and water chemistry. In fact, even non-pool owners struggle with the pink slime in bathrooms, kitchens, and washrooms. Ever notice that pink ring around the basin? That’s pink slime.

Let’s define what pink slime is. Pink slime is a naturally occurring bacterium (of the newly formed genus Methylobacterium). Pink Lime is NOT a form of Algae, it is animal not vegetable. It is pink- or red-pigmented and forms a heavy, protective slime coating which provides the organism with an unusually high level of protection. Pink slime consumes methanol (a waste gas) and it is oftentimes found WITH White Water Mold. This organism is very resilient and resistant against halogen-based (chlorine or bromine) as well as non-halogen sanitizers or germicides and can remain a contaminant even after treatment.

Although initially found in swimming pools being treated with biguanides (Baquacil, Soft Swim, Polyclear, etc. ), it is now seen in any and all swimming pool environments. This is NOT a biguanide problem ONLY nor is it CAUSED by the use of biguanides.

The pink slime bacterium has an affinity for the matrix that exists on the surface of PVC plastics; it will attach itself to & inside of the matrix, allowing it to re-contaminate long after it appears that it has been seemingly “destroyed” (includes pool toys, floats, ladders, steps, fountains, automatic pool cleaner parts, skimmer baskets, weirs, directional fittings, garden hoses, etc. ). Small quantities of pink slime can lead to a re-establishment of the problem. It is caused by improper water & pool maintenance, environmental factors and poor circulation. Pink slime prefers areas that are “dark” (not exposed to direct sunlight) & with “slow moving” water. In another industry, medical technology, this bacterium occurs regularly in laboratory tubin.

Look for pink slime under ladder treads, behind the skimmer weir, on the undersides skimmer baskets, pool directional returns, underwater pool light niches and light housings. If you find that the pool just isn’t holding chlorine, bromine, or even hydrogen peroxide used in biguanide treated pools, look for pink slime.

After regular tracking of homeowners swimming pools affected by pink slime, here are some commonalities:

  • Many, but not all, affected pools have “smaller (under) sized” cartridge filters. (i. e. using a 75 sq ft filter on a 24 ft Rnd aboveground pool or a 90 sq ft filter on a 15 x 30 inground pool).
  • Affected pools get 6 hours or less of direct sunlight on the pool surfaces.
  • Pool owners always leave the solar blanket on AND don’t chemically clean the blanket the recommended 2 times per year to remove the accumulated biofilm.
  • “Shocking” or oxidizing of the pool water is not done with the recommended label instructions. For example, rather than shocking the pool every week or two, that task is neglected because the water “looks fine. “
  • Rainy pool seasons see a dramatic rise in the cases of pink slime.
  • Customers regularly add fresh water from their tap without letting the hose-water run for a couple of minutes (the pink slime is already present in the garden hose and is transferred to the pool).
  • Pools with sand filters are not changing the sand every 2 to 3 years AND not chemically cleaning the filter sand 3 times a season (once every 6 to 8 weeks).
  • Newer observation: Most of the affected seem to use publicly treated drinking water. Pools filled with well water appear to be not as severely affected.
  • Affected pools are not as fastidiously maintained chemically (water balance, use of borate additives such as BioGuard Optimizer Plus or Proteam Supreme, regular shocking), as clean pools.

Another observation is that many water companies across the country, in partial response to “consumer calls” to “get rid of chlorine in the drinking water” are now using mono-chloramines to treat the water (over the past 15 to 20 years). Mono-chloramines do an essentially good job at treating pathogens in the drinking water, however, some of the non-pathogenic organisms may indeed be getting by. Unfortunately, there is only experiential or anecdotal evidence.

Prevention of “pink slime” is preferred over treatment. Follow these steps to help prevent pink slime:

  • Physically brush & clean ALL Pool surfaces weekly, including ladder steps (especially underneath each step) & rails
  • Expose ALL pool surfaces to as much sunlight as possible (sunlight & UV are natural oxidizers)
  • Remove the lid from the skimmer to allow sunlight into the basket for several hours each day ** INGROUND POOLS MUST USE EXTREME CAUTION in doing this in order to avoid a person falling into or otherwise injuring themselves due to an open skimmer.
  • Regularly add oxidizing chemicals into the skimmer to purge & clean the filtration lines of any bio-film (use extreme caution if doing this. Add chemicals slowly and remove ANY and ALL objects, including slow dissolving chlorine tablets or sticks, to avoid a potential chemical reaction such as explosion.
  • When adding make-up water from the garden hose, allow the water to run for 2 to 3 minutes before putting the hose into the pool.
  • Regularly clean pool toys & floats (use BioGuard Stow Away acting as a mildewcide)
  • Regularly clean pool solar blanket (use BioGuard Stow Away)
  • Chemically clean the pool filter every 4 to 6 weeks (use Strip Kwik, Kleen It or Soft Swim® Filter Cleaner). This is a very important step regardless of the filter type; sand, DE or Cartridge.
  • Add regular Maintenance dosages of “Shock” & Algicide every 1 to 2 weeks as prescribed (3 to 4 weeks in bguanide pools).
  • Use borate products such as BioGuard Optimizer Plus as a preventative measure (borates, when used properly at a rate of 50 – 80 ppm, allow the sanitizer to sanitize rather than sanitize and prevent algae growth).
  • Run the filter a minimum of 12 hours daily to prevent “dead spots” in the pool.
  • Remember to clean & rinse the brushes, hoses & vacuums that you use to clean the pool
  • Leave as much of your pool equipment exposed to the sun (sunlight is a natural oxidizer)
  • Keep the water balanced at all times. Recheck after heavy usage or rain or large “top-offs” of new water. Water balance refers to Free Available Sanitizer level, pH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness.
  • Treatment of “pink slime” MUST BE QUICK AND TOTAL! DON’T SKIMP!

  • Clean all pool & affected surfaces as prescribed above.
  • Physically clean & remove all visible “pink slime”
  • Add an initial dosage of algicide to the pool
  • “Shock” the pool with a triple or quadruple dose
  • Run filter 24 hours daily until water is clear & halogen or peroxide levels are maintained at a “higher” level
  • Chemically clean the filter. Simple rinsing or backwashing of the filter will not remove the greases, oils & other accumulated contaminant from the filter and filter tank.
  • Have the pool water professionally tested & analyzed. Look for a pool company that knows what they are talking about and isn’t afraid to tell you the truth about problem.
  • Maintain Optimizer Plus (or other borate product) levels
  • Maintain good water balance of pH, Total Alkalinity & Calcium Hardness
  • The longer that you allow the pink slime to remain, the more difficult it will be to cure.

    http://www.parpools.com

    http://www.parpools.com/BioGuard-Pool-Chemicals.html

    NJ HOME IMPROVEMENT CONTRACTOR: Tips for a Larger Floor Plan on your

    Are you thinking about modifying your home and adding a Raised Level. You may not realize it but there are different ways you and your NJ Home Improvement Contractor can make your soon to be Raised Level floor plan larger.

    Raised Level Above Your Garage:

    Have your NJ Home Improvement Contractor recommend ways for you to build above your garage. Let’s take a look at your garage, yes that’s right!!!. Many times you can also build your raised level above your attached single or double car garage allowing you more livable square footage in addition to the area above the main area of your home. If your home was built from the 1960’s upward, chances are the foundation under your garage can support a second level. You cannot be certain unless your NJ Home Improvement Contractor actually digs a few test holes alongside your actual garage foundation. He will be looking to see where the bottom of the foundation ends. Here in the North east, many local building codes require the foundation bottom to be a minimum of three feet below grade due to the frost line. This can be verified by having your NJ Home Improvement Contractor call your local building department. In case your foundation does not meet the local code depth, your NJ Home Improvement Contractor can modify the depth and fill with concrete to meet the needed code requirement. Once this is established, you can start adding the new Raised Level above your garage. With the combined square footage of the area that comprises above your main home and the additional area above your garage, you can have a beautiful new combined floor layout. Best part of this is that many building departments are becoming more strict in regards to the zoning requirements and setbacks within your town. It’s becoming harder to receive a permit when applying for additions to your home based on these new lot coverage requirements. If you slightly exceed these new requirements, the home owner will have to go through a variance meeting that involves usually a two -three month wait where you would go before your town and apply for the right to receive the permit to extend your home. By building above your existing garage for added square footage, you are building above an existing structure that many times already conforms to your local building department requirements in which you may not need a variance.

    Cantilever Your Raised Level:

    With the proper planning, your NJ Home Improvement Contractor can provide you with a larger floor plan for your raised level by cantilevering the new floor. When we say cantilever, it is simply referred to as an “overhang”. Many times, your new floor plan can incorporate a cantilever for additional square footage. When cantilevering, your NJ Home Improvement Contractor can add or sister new floor beams alongside the existing floor beams to create an extended beam that hangs out either past the front , rear , left or right side of your home. The most practical use to cantilever your raised level is in the front or back walls of your home. Many times a cantilever can extend two – three feet. For this example we will use two feet as our model. If you cantilever your front floor area two feet across the front top floor of a home that’s thirty feet wide, you just gained sixty more feet of floor space. Lets add to this example. If you do the exact same for the rear of the top floor you will pick up an additional sixty square feet for a total of one hundred twenty square feet. It a fairly easy way to gain more square footage. The only area of concern here is now you are extending your home towards the front and back property line. This could possibly infringe on these setbacks which would have to be looked at by your architect to confirm validity but for an architect, this is 10 minutes worth of investigating and you will have your answer if you think you are already close with your front yard setback.

    As you can see, there are a few possible ways to gain added square footage on your new raised level. Discuss these options with your NJ Home Improvement Contractor and hopefully you will benefit from the items mentioned above.

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